When the griddle plate under your deck oven or rotary unit starts drifting, the whole line feels it. Sear falls off, batters spread instead of holding, and tickets stack up. We built a curing ceramic heater for griddles to stop that temperature slide, so your menu executes the same way, shift after shift. What matters under the plate The core is a curing ceramic heater—dense, stable resistive elements set into a high-purity ceramic body. That geometry gives you even radiant output across the contact area, so the griddle surface stays level instead of chasing hot and cold spots. In practice, you get ±2°C steady-state stability at the plate, and heat-up to 300°C in under 90 seconds. The ceramic mass also stores energy through door cycles, so recovery is quicker and your staff can plate without waiting around. Why it holds up in real service In a deck oven or rotary oven, the griddle is often the weak point for heat consistency. Swap the original element for this curing ceramic heater and you get predictable caramelization, cleaner sear lines, and fewer undercooked centers. Because the heat field is uniform, you can run tighter schedules without overcorrecting on temperature. You’ll also see energy use drop—the heater hits setpoint fast and holds it with fewer on/off swings. What you need to get right Installation is straightforward, but match the mounting pattern and terminal block to your equipment. Clearance around the griddle edge matters for airflow and service access. These heaters perform best on the voltage and phase listed on the rating plate. Plan for a clean power supply and a stable thermostat signal—if your control is slow or undersized, the heater will cycle more than it should. Expect a bit more inrush current at start-up, then it settles into quiet, steady operation.